TRACING THE LIFE OF MASTER CHEF LOUIS P. DE GOUY

“Mr. De Gouy has the gift of making cooking an adventure. Even the plainest dishes become exciting; and for those of bolder spirit, there are many roads opening to new and unexpected gustatory pleasures. He writes with infectious enthusiasm for his subject, salting the book with anecdotes and amusing tales on the origin and the history of philosophy and poetry about the timeless art of cooking and eating” – From the dust jacket of The Gold Cookbook, thirteenth printing, 1960.

“From time immemorial, soups and broths have been the worldwide medium for utilizing what we call the kitchen byproducts or as the French call them, the ‘dessertes de la table’ (leftovers), or ‘les parties interieures de la bete’, such as head, tail, lights, liver, knuckles and feet.” Louis P. De Gouy, The Soup Book (1949).

“Even today, some Dutch mothers place a piece of stale bread in their babies’ cradles to ward off disease. In Morocco, stale bread is considered an excellent cure for stuttering and present-day Egyptians believe that licking a stale crust will cure indigestion” from Breads Superstitions, Louis P. De Gouy The Bread Tray, Dover Publishing, 1974

“Be not deceived by the apparent nonchalance with which an expert cook or master chef throws together an attractive and tempting meal. It is merely proof that, through practical experience, she or he knows thoroughly all the steps and preparation that seem to follow each other so automatically to a successful conclusion. No beginner should feel ashamed to depend on whatever help other people can give, either through printed recipes or by personal instruction” –Louis P. De Gouy from Creative Hamburger Cookery, Dover Publishing, 1974

“Good soup is one of the prime ingredients of good living. For soup can do more to lift the spirits and stimulate the appetite than any other one dish.”
Louis P. De Gouy, The Soup Book, Dover Publishing, 1974

“One whiff of a savory aromatic soup and appetites come to attention. The steaming fragrance of a tempting soup is a prelude to the goodness to come. An inspired soup puts family and guests in a receptive mood for enjoying the rest of the menu.” Louis P. De Gouy, The Soup Book, Dover Publishing, 1974
And

“There is nothing like a plate or a bowl of hot soup, its wisp of aromatic steam making the nostrils quiver with anticipation, to dispel the depressing effects of a grueling day at the office or the shop, rain or snow in the streets, or bad news in the papers.” – Louis P. De Gouy The Soup Book, Dover Publishing, 1974.
***
Until relatively recently, I had never heard of Louis De Gouy, and I didn’t have any of his cookbooks. Now I have one, The Gold Cookbook, and I have no idea where it came from–which, I am abashed to admit, is not unusual for me. I have acquired cookbooks singly and by the boxful…recently by the tote-bagful when my daughter in law and I went to the Lancaster Friends of the Library book sale. When two of my girlfriends died, five years apart, I was given most of their cookbooks. Mandy and I frequently bought the same cookbook at the same time, so now I had two of many different cookbooks.

As I was researching various other cookbook authors, I began coming across references to Louis De Gouy. Most surprising, I discovered that he was one of the founders of the now-defunct Gourmet Magazine which I loved and subscribed to for many years. (*When my husband and I moved to Florida in 1979, I discarded decades of old Gourmet magazines, never imagining they might be valuable). When we returned to California in 1982, I started up a new collection of Gourmet Magazines.

Gourmet Magazine debuted in January, 1941 and the final issue was published in November, 2009.

Gourmet Magazine was the idea of Earle R. MacAusland (1891-1980). He conceived the magazine in his mind in the late 1930s and began putting the pieces for it together. He approached Boston artist, Samuel Chamberlain, who agreed to be an out-of-house resource. Chamberlain was useful because he could both illustrate, and write well. MacAusland also recruited a professional chef, Louis Pullig de Gouy. Pearl Metzelthin was the first editor-in-chief.

The first issue appeared in December 1940 (dated January 1941). MacAusland was 50 years old at the time. That first issue was a mere 48 pages, with an illustration of a roasted boar’s head on its cover. The main piece was on the food and wine of Burgundy. In fact, the early years of the magazine would focus on French cooking as well as eastern American food.

In 1941, Clementine Paddleford came onboard as a regular contributor (Clementine Paddleford is one of the cookbook authors on my to-do list to write about). The “You Asked for It” column of recipes requested by readers started in 1944. The magazine started running serial narrative articles that became popular with readers. The covers were often created by Henry Stahlhut.
I learned that De Gouy was the Chef at the Waldorf-Astoria Hotel for 30 years but curiously, despite spending three decades at one hotel, he served at numerous other establishments, both here and abroad.

De Gouy began his career as chef under his famous father, who was then Esquire of Cuisine to the late Emperor Francis Josef of Austria. Later he studied under the renowned Escoffier. In time his name became associated with some of the great culinary establishments in Europe and America. In France: Grand Hotel, Hotel Regina, Hotel du Louvre, Hotel de Paris, and Monte Carlo. In England: Carlton Hotel, Leicester Square, Hotel Kensington, and Grand Hotel, Folkstone. in Spain: Casino of San Sebastian and Hotel Maria Christina. In America: the old Hotel Belmont and the old Waldorf-Astoria in New York City; Old Indian Harbor Yacht Club in Greenwich, Conn.; La Tour d’Argent in Chicago; and countless others. He served as Chef Steward aboard the J. P. Morgan yacht Wild Duck when it made its cruise around the world. (For a man who only lived to be seventy-one years old, he really got around).

In addition to being one of the founders of Gourmet Magazine, De Gouy was consulting editor and chef for Restaurant Management Magazine, and consulting chef for the National Hotelmen Association of America.

And if that were not enough, Chef De Gouy authored sixteen cookbooks! How was that accomplished? Well, I can do the math—many of them were published after De Gouy had passed away but it appears that he had compiled the manuscripts and obtained copyrights on them. It would be interesting to know who inherited his works and managed to put them into a respectable collection of cookbooks. And perhaps this also explains the huge value placed on SODA FOUNTAIN/LUNCHEONATTE/DRINKS AND RECIPES published in 1940. There is one listed on Amazon.com and the price is $5,000.00! (I don’t want ANY book that much, to pay such an exorbitant price for it! It’s not like you’re talking about the Gutenberg Bible! And I can’t help but think how many cookbooks I could buy with five thousand dollars!)

The following is a list of De Gouy’s cookbooks with an effort made to putting them in their original date order. I have spent hours searching for additional information but for the most part, come up empty-handed.

• The Derrydale Fish AND GAME Cook Book 1930s (** see footnotes)

• Ice Cream and Ice Cream Desserts: 470 Tested Recipes, original copyright 1938, Copyright renewed 1966

• Sandwich Manual For Professionals, 1939, Published by The Dahls in Stamford Ct.

• Soda Fountain & Luncheonette Drinks & Recipes, 1940, Published by The Dahls in Stamford, Ct.

• The Bread Tray: Recipes for Homemade Breads, Rolls, Muffins and Biscuits, Original copyright 1944, Copyright renewed 1972

• The Gold Cook Book, originally published 1947, with numerous reprints, up to and including 1960, Published by The Chilton Company-Book Division

• The Soup Book, Copyright 1949 by Mrs. Louis De Gouy, Dover Edition 1974

• The Salad Book, 1950

• Creative Hamburger Cookery; 182 Unusual Recipes for Casseroles, Meat… 1951

• The Pie Book, 1974 Dover Publishing

• The Oyster Book

• Sandwich exotica: The sandwich manual for connoisseurs

• The Ultimate Sandwich Book: With Over 700 Delicious Sandwich Creations

• The Cocktail Hour, copyright 1951 by Mrs. LDG, Greenberg Publishing

• Chef’s cook book of profitable recipes; 1500 recipes for hotels

• The Burger Book; tasty ways to serve ground meat

**I am listing the Derrydale Fish & Game Cookbooks as a single entry even though I have seen dozens of listings showing them separately – either the fish or the game cookbook which confused me, initially, because the listing would be something like “Derrydale Fish Cookbook” accompanied by a photo of the cookbook showing illustrating it as “Derrydale Fish AND Game Cookbook”. I finally found the following which I think clarifies the listing:

“In 1927 Eugine Connell III established the Derrydale Press, the leading publisher of outdoor and sporting books in America. Its original 169 published titles are prized by book collectors around the world. Louis De Gouy was a master chef with possible lineage to a chef of the Austrian Royal Court. Louis was also one of the original founders of Gourmet Makes which made its debut in 1941. This set of wonderful cookbooks was first published in 1937. These are a set of the 1987 reprints and were a limited edition of 3000. This two volume set is a classic in culinary literature. Written in encyclopedic form they are guides to cooking every type of game, fish and crustaceans imaginable. From bear to woodcock and bass to whiting you will never be at a loss for something new and unusual again. These hard bound leather editions are filled with 634 pages of recipes in mint unused condition. They are the perfect gift for the hunter, fisherman or culinary genius in our life.”

Postscript: I have begun collecting the cookbooks of Louis De Gouy, searching for any kind of copies, to read, not necessarily for cookbook collecting value. Out of five that I recently purchased from Alibris.com, four were published by Dover Publishing, and one by Running Press. A clue was found almost immediately by opening the pages of The Bread Tray. Inside is this:

This Book is fondly Dedicated
To the Memory Of
Louis P. De Gouy
(1876-1947)
By His Daughter
Jacqueline S. Dooner

The original copyright for The Bread Tray was obtained by Chef De Gouy in 1944 and renewed in 1972 by his daughter. Curiously, the copyright for De Gouy’s “Creative Hamburger Cookery” was obtained by MRS. Louis P. De Gouy in 1951. This, too, contains the same dedication to De Gouy’s memory by his daughter, Jacqueline.

“Ice Cream and Ice Cream Desserts” is listed by L.P. De Gouy, who seemed to favor changing his name around from time to time. (Did he, perhaps, think that using his own Louis P. De Gouy name on all of his books might flood the market? The original copyright on “Ice Cream and Ice Cream Desserts” is 1938 by L.P. De Gouy and the copyright was renewed by his wife in 1966. It seems fair to assume that Louis P. De Gouy obtained copyrights on all of his original manuscripts whether published or not, and those copyrights were renewed by his heirs.

Not much can be found on the internet that I haven’t already shared with you. Louis P. De Gouy was only 71 years old when he passed away (I can say “only” because I am now 70, approaching 71). And yet he accomplished so much in his lifetime!

I am looking forward to reading his cookbooks. You might want to read them too. These are all “from scratch” cookbooks and I doubt you will find a can of mushroom soup or a box of onion soup mix anywhere in the lot. For those interested, the best prices I’ve found to date were on Alibris. Com.

Happy Cooking – and Happy Cookbook Collecting!

Sandra Lee Smith

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39 responses to “TRACING THE LIFE OF MASTER CHEF LOUIS P. DE GOUY

  1. Nancy Williams

    Sandy,
    Another great post–and thanks for reviving the memory of this book. It first entered my sphere of awareness when as an active babysitter in the 1960’s, I kept encountering it on the bookshelves of homes where the owners were evidently more than casual cooks. Often these homes had neatly organized stacks of Gourmet Magazine. Most homes had either Better Homes and Gardens or Betty Crocker or Joy of Cooking plus a few paper manuals that had come with appliances.

    • It baffles me, Nancy, that I have collected cookbooks for 45 years without knowing anything about Louis De Gouy & now, reviewing some of his books, I see that he wrote in a charming way, similarly the way The Browns did. I bought 5 of his books from Alibris recently, will look for others but won’t pay the outrageous prices on some. Thanks for writing!

    • Thanks Nancy. Am working on a contemporary cookbook author/master gardener – let me know what you think of it when I get it posted. I am waiting for a couple of his cookbooks to arrive to see what, if anything, I want to add to the manuscript. XO Sandy

    • Hi Nancy – I am learning more and more about Louis De Gouy…I have been ordering some of his cookbooks online – many of them can be found really cheap. Rec’d The Pie Book in the mail today.
      (I wish I could deduct all the cookbooks I buy….sigh) – I hope you will read my article about William Wous Weaver…that one took a few weeks to put together and I just got two of his books in the mail today–I ordered them but didnt wait for the books to arrive since I didnt think it would change what I had already written. I have finished writing about yet another cookbook author today – will be posting it shortly. Thanks much for your encouragement & input!!!

  2. I’m looking for a recipe for “Champagne Grapefruit Mousse” which appeared in an issue of Gourmet Magazine in the early 1980’s. I too discarded many priceless issues. thanks in advance.

    • Gerald, I am not familiar with this recipe but I will try to find it. Have you checked any of the Gourmet magazine books? yeah, you have my sympathy – it makes me slightly nauseous to think of all the years of cooking magazines I discarded–mostly when we moved to Florida in 1979. Well! Champagne Grapefruit mousse sounds really GOOD so I will try to find it for you! Thanks for writing! – sandy

  3. I have a copy of De Gouy’s Soda Fountain And Luncheonette Drinks And Recipes from 1940 and have been having a hard time finding information online. It came with a storage unit lot with some other books, but since I collect cookbooks and it was cool and tiny, I kept it. There are some really funny and outdated commentary sprinkled throughout. Is this book valuable? It is in pretty good shape, no breaks, a little dusty…?

    • Dear Irene,
      I bought a wide variety of De Gouy’s cookbooks and they ranged in price from a few cents to under $10. I remember that a few of his books are rare and collectible but I dont remember which ones fall into that category I dont think I have the soda fountain and luncheonette cookbook – if you are inteested in selling this, give me a price.
      I found research on De Gouy somewhat difficult and yet he was a most prolific cookbook author. You know, Dover Press reprinted many of his books, To get some idea of the value of your book, do some browsing on Amazon.com or Alibris.com and see what the price range is for your book. Let kme know what you find out! = Sandy/Sandychatter

  4. irene jellybean

    Dear Sandy,
    Sorry I haven’t responded ’til now. I am having no luck in finding any online resources to help me price this little book. I get “rare” and “out of print” a lot, but no help at all from Alibris, Amazon, Ebay or other antiquarian bookseller sites. There was one review on Amazon, I think, that stated it’s rarity and said the last copy they knew of sold for $5000. Maybe I’ll just have to surrender to putting it up for auction somewhere. But first, I will take it to a dealer in my town for his opinion.Thanks for your interest. If I find anything conclusive, I’ll be back.

  5. irene jellybean

    DOH! Disregard that last bit about the $5000 selling price on Amazon. It was at the top of THIS page. *blush* ;D

  6. Hi, Irene – thanks for writing again. Might I suggest you post the cookbook on ebay see what happens but you will want to establish a starting price, what you want as a minimum. I think you can also list your book with Amazon or Alibris and list it for whatever you feel its worth. I have NO idea – I seem to remember that particular book is considered rare. let us know what you decide. I’m curious!

  7. I will be listing an old copy of “Salad Book” on ebay. My grandmother apparently bought it around 1950 in Gilmore’s Department store in Kalamazoo, Michigan. You history was extreemly interesting– it almost makes me want to keep. Thanks.
    Pat

    • Let me know how you do, Patricia. I am sometimes tempted to sell some cookbooks.

    • Well, I’ve accomplished my mission, if by writing about the old masters – those cookbook authors of the 40s, 50s and 60s, I have brought some of their work to your (thats a collective your) attention and perhaps thinking twice aboit their cookbooks. I have others to write about! Need to get busy!!! thanks for writing, Patricia. ps if it was one of your grandmother’s cookbooks I would think you would want to keep it. Last year I was given my maternal grandmother’s cookbook from a much earlier era and I treasure it.

  8. Sorry about all the typo’s– I did not see them until just now.
    Pat

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  10. I just found a copy of “The Gold Cookbook” at the book swap in our towns’ transfer station. I never heard of him before, but after browsing through it I love him!

    My favorite recipe so far is for Beer Syllabub. All I need is a cow to make it properly. 🙂

    Thank you for writing this blog post.

    Ken

    • Ken, I think the gold cookbook was easily his finest – but after I read that one I began buying some of his other books- many of them are very inexpensive re the internet– you are mainly paying for the postage/shipping which is $3.99 – but if you find one of his books for one cent, you are getting it for $4.00 – which I think is fairly reasonable. Thanks for writing! – Sandy

  11. This was lovingly rebound for my husband in 1978. It was his bible when going to cooking school in the 1960’s in Boston MA.

    • MaryKa–I think part of your email was lost in cyberspace – I saw a bit of it when I found your email in my Verizon account – then I have to go to WordPress to approve comments. Can you repost the entire message and I will get it uploaded into WordPress. Thanks. – Sandy

    • OK I take that back – I went to the youtube connection and found the copy of the Gold Cookbook that you had rebound for your husband & it looks like you want to sell it but I didn’t see a price. I suggest to any readers who are interested in the Gold Cookbook with a leather cover, to write directly to Marykajohnsonblog.wordpress.com. Regards, Sandy

  12. I am so happy to have found this post, Sandy. I bought The Gold Cookbook about 40 years ago for $3. It has been my bible in the kitchen ever since. The best cookbook ever.

    The beer syllabub is a favorite, though I’ve never made it. I just love reading it and his anecdote about how waffles were invented. My favorite recipe is Beef Loaf My Way. So delicious.

    Thank you for providing a space where I can enthuse about Louis P De Gouy.

    • and thank you, Elen, for taking the time to write about your copy of the Gold cookbook – I agree, it was one of his finest. – regards, Sandy

  13. Does any one have the recipe for scalloped oysters?

    • I hope someone who has the Gold cookbook will respond to your request, Carlene, because I can’t find ANY of my De Gouy cookbooks–did not find any of them in the bookcase where I keep favorite cookbook authors – will continue to search but meantime I know that the Gold cookbook has been a reader favorite for many years – so please, if you have the book and can find the recipe for scalloped oysters – will you write back to me? – thanks much, Sandy

    • Carlene, I have two recipes for scalloped oysters to send to you but wanted to tell you – if you google “scalloped oysters” many recipes provided by famous cooks, such as Martha Stewart & Paula Deen, will pop up. One I copied is Paula Deen’s. Is goody2635@yahoo.com your email address? if so I will send the recipes I copied to you tomorrow. regards, Sandy

      • PAULA DEEN’S SCALLOPED OYSTERS
        Ingredients
        1 quart shucked oysters in their liquor
        2 cups coarsely crushed saltine crackers
        1 cup dry bread crumbs
        3/4 cup melted butter
        1 cup cream
        Nutmeg
        Salt and pepper
        Celery salt, optional
        Directions
        Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.

        Pick oysters free of any shells.

        In a deep buttered casserole, mix together crackers, bread crumbs, and melted butter. Place a thin layer of crumb mixture in the bottom of the casserole. Cover it with half of the oysters. Season cream with nutmeg, salt, pepper and celery salt (if using). Pour half of this mixture over the oysters. On the next layer, use the oysters, 3/4 of the remaining crumb mixture and cover that with seasoned cream. Top with the remaining crumbs. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, or until lightly browned.

        TASTE OF HOME SCALLOPED OYSTERS

        TOTAL TIME: Prep: 15 min. Bake: 30 min.
        MAKES: 8 servings
        Ingredients

        2 cups crushed butter-flavored crackers (about 50)
        1/2 cup butter, melted
        1/2 teaspoon salt
        Dash pepper
        1 pint shucked oysters or 2 cans (8 ounces each) whole oysters, drained
        1 cup heavy whipping cream
        1/4 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

        Directions
        1. Combine cracker crumbs, butter, salt and pepper; sprinkle a third into a greased 1-1/2-qt. baking dish. Arrange half of the oysters over crumbs. Top with another third of the crumb mixture and the remaining oysters.
        2. Combine cream and Worcestershire sauce; pour over oysters. Top with remaining crumb mixture. Bake, uncovered, at 350° for 30-40 minutes or until top is golden brown. Yield: 8 servings.

        Hope this is what you are searching for. When I get back home today I will go through the Gold Cookbook again! – Sandy

    • One more response, Carlene – I have gone through my gold cookbook again – and there just isn’t a recipe for scalloped oysters–however, that being said, I noticed that my copy is a thirteenth edition – maybe scalloped oysters appeared in an early edition! What I am looking at is Oysters Benedict, Oysters Casino, Oyster Fricassee Baltimore and Oyster Fricassee Boston Style, also Oyster Fritters, Oyster Fry, Oyster and Mushroom Pie & Oyster Pilote, A supper Party Recipe – and Oyster Stew…that’s all the oyster recipes in my Gold cookbook. Hope you find what you are looking for! – Sandy

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  16. Thank you so much for posting this information. I have a 1974 Dover reproduction of the 1944 original of The Bread Tray. I picked this up at a flea market for $1.75 somewhere in the San Jose, CA, area in about 1975. Upon Googling the author a couple of days ago it was shocking to find nothing about this wonderful chef in Wikipedia. Without your post it is entirely possible that all of this information would have been lost forever, or at least next to impossible for any of us to dig up on our own. I was so inspired after reading all of this that I searched for The Gold Cook Book and found a very good old copy available from an independent seller on Amazon. It should arrive next week, and I can hardly wait! Merry Early Christmas to me!

    • Mary Christmas to you, Jodi – of all the books Chef De Gouy wrote, I think the Gold is the best and I see it listed from time to time.–many of the authors from dacades ago are being lost – if no one writes about them..and I don’t think I had a lot to work with re: de Gouy. Thanks for writing. – Sandy@sandychatter

    • enjoyed your post, Jodi – hope the Gold cookbook was a good present to yourself. De Gouy was possibly the most difficult to research – but I said the same thing when I first began researching for “Where’s Waldo” –Waldo was this woman’s professional name and she was another prolific cookbook author–but her books were published up to a certain date (mid 50s I think…) and no more after that. it took a lot of digging (and patience) to find “the rest of the story” – I think she moved to California to be closer to relatives after her husband, an attorney, passed away…but what a jolt I got when I found out she had been living in Los Angeles for years and died right about the time I was digging around for information about her. And Meta Given was yet another cookbook author – I started out with a few of her cookbooks and not much more. (both of these can be found on my blog if you are interested). The upside to all of this is that so many of these authors cookbooks can be found on sources like Amazon.com. My all time favorite is the Browns cookbooks–after I had posted something about them on my blog, I received an email from one of the descendants of the Browns…what fun! (I may have missed my calling – research would have been right up my alley!) thanks for writing. Sandy

  17. Such a wonderful post. Thank you for sharing. A copy of The Gold Cook Book was given to me by a family member years ago. One of my most cherished resources from the pantry. Chef De Gouy’s corn chowder recipe has entertained friends and family numerous times. A popular request during cold winter months. The chowder has a rich base and subtle, yet complex, flavor profile. Goes well with baguettes.

    I have the good fortune of owning a signed copy of his Fish and Game Cookbooks dated June 30, 1937 . The first edition was limited to 1250 and sold as a numbered set. It lists the following recipe for Scolloped Oysters:

    Scalloped Oysters

    Mix 1/2 cup of bread crumbs with 1 cup of cracker crumbs and stir in 1/2 cup melted butter. Put a thin layer of the mixture in the bottom of a well-buttered baking dish; cover with half a pint of cleaned oysters and sprinkle with salt, pepper, and a few grains of Cayenne pepper. Repeat and cover with the remaining crumbs. Set in a moderately hot oven (375) and cook 15 to 20 minutes.

    Author’s Note

    Never allow more than 2 layers of oysters for scalloped oysters; if three layers are used, only the bottom and top will be properly cooked; the middle layer will be underdone. A sprinkling of mace or grated nutmeg to each layer enhances the flavor. If the top browns too fast, cover with buttered paper. Serve right from the baking dish with a side dish of cucumber and tomato salad with French dressing.

    “. . . Tom, whom today no noise stirs,
    Lies buried in these cloisters;
    If at the last trump
    He does not quickly jump
    Only cry OYSTERS . . .”

    Epitaph on a Colchester Man’s Grave

    Sandy, thanks again for writing such an informative piece.

    George

    • George, thank YOU for such an entertaining and informative response! it brought back memories of reading through chef De Guoy’s entertaining Gold Cookbook–I don’t think anyone else has ever written a cookbook like his – I was enchanted with all the poetry, having searched for these for YEARS—then when I began writing about the food poetry I discovered I had too much for one blog post – and ended up with half a dozen blog posts just about these. Thanks much. Sandy

      • Thanks for writing, George – I think De Gouy was such a great cookbook author and the Gold cookbook is undoubtedly his finest. I wish I knew more about him. – Sandy

      • Thanks again Sandy. If I find additional info I will keep you posted. Happy Thanksgiving!

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