WHO WAS COOKBOOK AUTHOR/RECIPE COLUMNIST MARY MARTENSEN?

Sometimes it simply starts with an old recipe card or a clipping with a name on it and you aren’t always sure where on earth you found it, especially if the clipping is very old and yellowed. Well, I do collect old recipe boxes, preferably with old recipe collections intact and this is sometimes where interesting clippings, or clippings pasted onto 3×5” cards turn up. Such is the case with the first recipe I found of Mary Martensen’s. It was a clipping pasted on a 3×5” card with directions for making pea soup.

From the introduction in one of her cookbooks, we learn that Mrs. Martensen was a graduate in Home Economics and Dietetics, having studied at the Boston School of Domestic Science, Simmons College and the Teachers College of Columbia University. Her first experience was as Director of Home Economics for the schools of Concord, New Hampshire. While there she also conducted courses in dietetics at the Concord City Hospital each week, and in Home Economics at Mount St. Mary’s Academy at Hookset, New Hampshire.

Following this, Mrs. Martensen became dietitian at Lake Forest Academy in Lake Forest, Illinois, leaving this position for the Home Economics Department of “a great packing company” (presumably Armour founded in 1867 by the Armour brothers following the Civil War). Here, in four seasons Mrs. Martensen conducted newspaper cooking schools in thirty-five states, lectured to women’s clubs in Chicago and its suburbs, and contributed to the household page edited in her department. She also prepared many recipe booklets, among them “Sixty Ways to Serve Ham” which I believe was compiled for Armour around 1935. During the last 2 years of this period Mrs. Martensen was the directing head of the department. Then followed five years as head of a Home Economics Department which she established for one of the largest baking powder companies in America. (No indication is given for the name of the baking company. Royal, Clabber Girl, and Rumford were three popular baking powder companies getting a strong foothold in the food industry in the late 1800s, early 1900s, however.)

In January, 1927, Mrs. Martensen established a Home Economics Department for “a large western newspaper” where she remained until she was selected by the Chicago Evening American for the position she was holding at the time her first cookbook was published–not counting pamphlets or booklets she may have authored prior to this. [I’m thinking that Mrs. Mary Martensen would have given Ida Bailey Allen a run for her money, as a contemporary in the 1920s writing for food manufacturers, conducting radio recipe programs and then branching out to compile cookbooks.]

Within a few months, the auditorium originally fitted for the newspaper Home Ec department of the Chicago Evening American had to be enlarged to double its size and capacity. Three courses of lessons were given in the first year of the department’s operation, with a total attendance of 6,600.

Editorially, Mrs. Martensen conducted a daily column in the Chicago Evening American, which was amplified to four columns on Mondays and Fridays, and a full page every Saturday in the American Home Journal. Her material was illustrated on Mondays and Saturdays with photographs and sketches made in her department of special dishes and table settings created in the department (The recipe page that a Sandychatter subscriber sent to me was published on a Thursday in the Chicago Herald American and along with recipes for strawberry chiffon pie and pineapple cheese pie, featured lovely illustrations – even in black and white—of a coconut wreath circling the pineapple cheese pie and another illustration of an ice cream pie.) And, apparently, at some point in time, Mrs. Martensen’s recipe columns were picked up by King Syndicate for release to other newspapers throughout the USA.

In the department’s first year, over 21,000 letters were received from readers and over 4,200 telephone calls responded to. Twenty five lectures before women’s clubs, farmers’ institutes, parent-teacher associations and high school classes were conducted. In addition to all this, Mrs. Martensen conducted weekly radio talks.

Mary Martensen was writing a column for the Herald American newspaper in 1950. I believe she was writing newspaper columns in the 1930s and 1940s as well. She also wrote “Mrs. Mary Martensen’s Recipes Cookbook/Chicago American” which I would SWEAR that I have, but to date have been unable to find. This was a newspaper-sponsored cookbook for the Chicago American.

Prior to this, the author worked for the meatpacker Armour Company* where she authored the popular, “Sixty ways to Serve Ham”

*Sandy cooknote: The information I discovered online about the Armour Company and the many different products they manufactured nearly sent me into a tailspin, wanting to read and learn more about Armour—I had to force myself to stay on track with Mary Martensen.

In 1933, Mrs. Martensen wrote “Century of Progress Cookbook*” – so far I have not been able to lay my hands on any of Mary’s cookbooks. However, any number of her newspaper columns have survived over the decades. In fact, a Sandychatter subscriber bought some perfume bottles and found a 1950 sheet of newspaper with Mary Martensen’s Strawberry Chiffon Pie and Pineapple Cheese Pie featured on that date, June 22, 1950 – and sent a copy of it to me.

In addition to its widely syndicated Sunday magazine “The American Weekly”, the Journal-American had a Saturday supplement called Home Magazine, as well. Mary’s columns appeared in this newspaper supplement as well.

Zirta Green, who balanced a career with motherhood and home long before it became fashionable was a test kitchen chef for the Chicago Herald American and Chicago Tribune newspapers for their cooking and recipe columns from 1953-1966, and later for the Mary Martensen TV cooking show, broadcasted on WBKB Chicago, ABC-TV, around 1954. (*This short paragraph about Mrs. Green was the only indication I discovered about Mary Martensen having a TV cooking s how –back in the day, long before TV cooking shows were so popular!

An illustration/portrait of Mary Martensen was published in her first cookbook; it shows a very pretty blonde haired woman, nicely dressed, with a sweet smile.

Not much more is known about Mary Martensen – although if anyone reading this knows more, I would love to hear from you. However, some of her recipes crop up if you take the time to surf Google patiently. The first one I am offering is the recipe I originally found on a recipe card.

To make MARY’S SPLIT PEA SOUP you will need:

1 cup dried split peas
2 ½ quarts cold water
1 pint milk
½ onion
2” cube fat salt pork
3 TBSP butter or margarine
2 TBSP flour
1 ½ tsp salt
1/8 tsp pepper

Pick over peas and soak several hours in cold water to cover. Drain, add cold water, pork and onion. Simmer 3 or 4 hours or until soft. Put through a sieve*. Add butter and flour and seasonings blended together. Dilute with the milk, adding more milk if necessary. Note the water in which a ham has been cooked may be used. Omit the salt.

Sandy’s cooknote: If you don’t have a sieve, you can blend the peas in your blender but I would suggest cooling it down somewhat, first, and only do half a blender-full at a time so it doesn’t splash. When I make pea soup I like to cook the peas and whatever other ingredients (carrots, onion) -except meat – and blend it in my blender to make it smooth. Then add some leftover ham if you want it in your soup. We like very thick soups, more like chowders. What I usually do is cook a hambone and then set it aside. Use the stock from the hambone then to cook the peas. (And if you take the time to chill the stock, you can easily remove the fat that rises to the top and solidifies). While the peas are cooking, cool the hambone and remove all the bits of meat to put back into the pot later. Ok, it’s a little more work this way–but you will have a fine pot of soup. (Some things do take longer – but I guarantee, if you cook a hambone and use those scraps of meat – you will have a delicious stock AND most flavorful meat. It will beat a package of pre-diced ham bits from the supermarket hands down!)

Here is Mary’s recipe for SUNSHINE CAKE, 1946

1 cup sifted cake flour
½ teaspoon salt
5 egg yolks, beaten
7 egg whites, beaten
1 teaspoon cream of tartar
1 ¼ cups sugar
1 teaspoon any desired flavoring (I recommend lemon extract)
Preparation Instructions

Sift the flour once, measure and resift twice with the salt. Beat the egg yolks until thick and lemon colored. Beat the egg whites until foamy, add the cream of tartar and beat until stiff, but not dry. Add the sugar gradually and beat until the mixture holds in soft peaks. Fold in the beaten egg yolks and flavoring. Fold in the flour gently but thoroughly to avoid breaking air cells in the egg mixture. Pour batter into an ungreased ten-inch tube pan and bake in a moderate oven, 350 degrees, for about 50 minutes, or until done. Remove from oven and invert for one hour, or until cool. When cool, frost with a thin coating of confectioners’ sugar, or sprinkle with sifted confectioners’ sugar.

MARY MARTENSEN’S POPCORN BALLS, 1946

1 cup molasses
1 tablespoon vinegar
3 tablespoons butter
1 cup dark corn syrup
3 quarts salted popped corn

Combine molasses, corn syrup and vinegar in a saucepan. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly until a small amount of syrup will form a hard ball when dropped into cold water. This is about 270 degrees if tested with a candy thermometer. Remove from the heat, add the butter and pour over the popped corn, stirring only enough to mix. Form into balls with the hands, using as little pressure as possible. Makes 16 to 18 balls.

(Sandy’s Cooknote *I can’t wait to make this. I buy a big bottle of molasses from a warehouse-type of supermarket in Palmdale, called Smart & Final because I love to make molasses cookies—and I like adding a small amount to the white Karo syrup when I am making caramel corn).

From a Sandychatter reader: “I have my grandmother’s collection of recipes and cookbook. In there I found 2 pages of dumpling recipes from the Chicago Herald American, Home Economics Department, Mary Martensen, Director. They are hand typed and the photo copied from some sort of note book then mailed to my grandmother. I was interested so I did a little research. The Newspaper was the Chicago Evening American from 1914-1939 then it became the Chicago Herald-American 1939-1953 then the Chicago American from 1953-1969.” Tina Aiello Milwaukee, Wisconsin.

(*Sandy’s Cooknote: Tina, if you happen to read this, would you share some of your grandmother’s recipes with me?. When Mary’s first cookbook was published some pages were deliberately left blank just so someone could add their own recipes or clippings.)

MARY MARTENSEN’S CHOCOLATE CUPCAKES

½ cup shortening
1 cup sugar
2 eggs
2 squares unsweetened chocolate
2 cups sifted flour
1 teaspoon soda
½ teaspoon salt
1 cup buttermilk or soured milk
1 teaspoon vanilla
Preparation Instructions

Cream the shortening, add sugar and cream together until light and fluffy. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Add the chocolate which has been melted and cooled, and blend well.

Sift the flour once, measure and resift twice with the soda and salt. Add to the batter alternately with the buttermilk, beating until smooth after each addition. Add vanilla. Fill twelve cupcake pans which have been greased, two thirds full with the batter. Bake in a 350 degree oven, for about 20 minutes or until done.

When cupcakes are cool, with a small sharp pointed knife cut a cone-shape from the top of each. Remove and fill hollowed out portion with slightly sweetened whipped cream. If desired, a larger hollow can be made in the cupcake. Also, ice cream can be used in place of whipped cream to fill the hollow centers. Place top (which was removed from cupcake) on top of whipped cream and pour chocolate sauce over the top.

To make the chocolate sauce: Combine in a saucepan, one square unsweetened chocolate, cut in pieces, one cup sugar, two tablespoons corn syrup, one tablespoon butter and one-third cup hot water. Blend well and cook over low heat, stirring constantly until mixture comes to boiling point, then cook for five minutes. Cool slightly and add a few grains of salt and one half teaspoon vanilla. Serve warm or cold. Contributed by MARY MARTENSEN, 1946

From another Sandychatter reader, Rebecca Christian “I was interested in the Mary Martensen recipe. I worked as a test kitchen home economist in the test kitchen of Chicago’s American newspaper from 1967-1970. Mary Martensen was the nom de plume of the food editor who at that time was Dorothy Thompson. We had about 35,000 recipes in our files and they are still some of my best ones. Wish I had those files now!

Rebecca also wrote “Chicago’s American was eliminated as the afternoon paper of the Chicago Tribune around 1970 or 71. Don’t know if the Tribune kept the recipes or not. There are Chicago Tribune cookbooks but I don’t think they had any American recipes. Each paper owned by the Tribune as well as the Chicago Daily News had test kitchens at the time. We tested every recipe that went in the American. Those days are long gone! Becky.

(*Sandy’s cooknote – Oh, Rebecca – what wouldn’t we all give to have Mary’s recipes today! I’m pea-green with envy that you had the opportunity to work in the test kitchen of Chicago’s American newspaper from 1967-1970—I was busy giving birth during most of those years. Lol).

*Sandy’s cooknote – there are a lot of gaps in my story about Mary Martensen. I don’t know where she grew up or where she spent most of her life. I don’t know how long she lived even though we DO know that Zirta Green was a test kitchen chef of Mrs. Martensen’s who lived to the age of 97! On previous occasions when I mentioned Mary Martensen, readers responded with comments I have included in this post.

The best I can hope to achieve is more details becoming available to us – I am reminded of writing about Myra Waldo, first years ago (around 1990) when I was unable to learn ANYthing about Myra’s later life – and then years later, when I was rewriting my manuscript about Myra, I found obituary details on Google, not previously available to me. I like the idea “if you build it, they will come”

Cookbooks by Mary Martensen:

Home Canning and Freezing Book- or The Canning, Freezing, Curing & Smoking of Meat fish game – date unknown, possibly 1935

CENTURY OF PROGRESS COOKBOOK 1932

Mrs. Mary Martensen’s Recipes Cookbook Chicago American”

SIXTY WAYS TO SERVE HAM, Armour Ham, 1935

RECIPES FOR WILD GAME 1935?

(Sandy’s final cooknote: If anyone knows more about Mary’s cookbooks, such as dates of publication, or any other food editors writing under Mary Martensen’s name—or her other book titles please write!)

Happy Cooking & Happy Cookbook collecting!
Sandy

THE FOLLOWING MAY BE INTERESTED IN ALL THE READERS WHO WERE SEARCHING FOR PINEAPPLE CHEESE PIE. I THINK I’VE FOUND IT AND AM SENDING SEVERAL VERSIONS:

COOL and delicious pineapple cheese pie with cream cheese.
Ingredients:
• 1 package (8 oz.) cream cheese ,room temperature
• 1/4 cup sugar
• 1 cup heavy whipping cream, whipped
• 1 can (20 ounces) crushed pineapple, well drained
• 1 9-inch graham cracker pie shell
Preparation:
Beat cream cheese and sugar together until light and fluffy. Fold in the whipped cream, then the drained crushed pineapple. Spoon mixture into the pie shell. Chill thoroughly until filling is set, about 2 to 3 hours. Makes 6 to 8 servings.
**
NO BAKE PINEAPPLE CHEESE PIE

Ingredients:
• 1 package (8 oz.) cream cheese ,room temperature
• 1/4 cup sugar
• 1 cup heavy whipping cream, whipped
• 1 can (20 ounces) crushed pineapple, well drained
• 1 9-inch graham cracker pie shell
Preparation:
Beat cream cheese and sugar together until light and fluffy. Fold in the whipped cream, then the drained crushed pineapple. Spoon mixture into the pie shell. Chill thoroughly until filling is set, about 2 to 3 hours. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Apparently, this recipe goes back decades—I think it was popular in the 1930s or earlier. The following recipe is more detailed and may be closer to what my subscribers (at Sandychatter) were looking for:

Ingredients Edit and Save
Original recipe makes 2 pies
2 (9 inch) pie shell

1/3 cup white sugar

2 tablespoons cornstarch

1 (20 ounce) can crushed pineapple with juice

1 (8 ounce) package cream cheese, softened

1/2 cup white sugar

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 eggs

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

1/2 cup milk

1/2 cup chopped walnuts(optional)
Check All Add to Shopping List
Directions
1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees F (200 degrees C).
2. To Make Pineapple Layer: In a medium saucepan combine 1/3 cup sugar, cornstarch, and pineapple with juice. Cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, until mixture is the consistency of jelly.
3. To Make Cream Cheese Layer: In a medium mixing bowl, whip cream cheese until fluffy. Whip in sugar and salt until mixture is smooth. Add eggs, vanilla, and milk. Beat mixture until all ingredients are thoroughly combined. Mixture will be liquidy.
4. Pour half of pineapple mixture into each pastry shell. Pour half of cream cheese mixture over each pineapple layer. Sprinkle with chopped walnuts if desired.
5. Bake in preheated oven for 10 minutes. Reduce heat to 325 degrees F (165 degrees C) and bake an additional 50 minutes, until tops of pies begin to brown. Chill before serving. Top with whipped cream if desired.
Kitchen-Friendly View

When I got to thinking about the name of the recipe, I thought it couldn’t be much different from a cheesecake pie that uses 4 8-oz packages of cream cheese – plus some other ingredients, including a graham cracker crust. I used to make one that had cream cheese, cool whip and Jello – but I can’t remember if the jello was made up – or left dry. My son Steve loved this dessert.
– Sandy @ sandychatter.

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24 responses to “WHO WAS COOKBOOK AUTHOR/RECIPE COLUMNIST MARY MARTENSEN?

  1. I own this cookbook! (Mrs. Mary Martensen’s Century of Progress Cook Book 1933) It’s a bit tattered, but very useable condition. Pictures upon request.
    Make me an offer I can’t refuse and I’ll sell it to you (just in time for Christmas!)

    • Maybe someone will want to buy your cookbook. They have your email address with this comment. Much as I would like to make an offer, I have no idea what its worth, and am really not in a good position to buy any more cookbooks this year. I hit my quota sometime ago. lol. – Sandy

      • OK – thanks for letting me know. I also have several other old cookbooks from Chicago (was born & lived there for many years).

    • S Edwards: I didn’t see your e-mail address but want to ask:
      I have a coverless “Century of Progress” cookbook. Even without the cover you can tell it was made softcover. However, it seems to be more a collection like a church cookbook – many Swedish recipes. My grandmother & great-grandmother have recipes included in it. Does this sound like your book?

  2. I have an old cookbood with no publisher’s date. It is titled,
    Chicago Evening American Cook Book. It has a blue cover, and pages
    at the back state “purposely left blank in order that you may insert recipes not already appearing in this Cook Book) as you may have a special interest.” The title page: A Book of Practical Recipes for the Housewife.
    Anyone know the date this book was published?

    • Kathy, Mary started up the home ec department of the Chicago American newspaper in 1927 – my guess is that your book was published sometime after that, maybe around 1930.

  3. Kathy – I also have the same cookbook – it was manufactured in 1923 by the John F. Cuneo Company in Chicago. They were big contributors to lots of causes, in fact I was born in Cuneo Hospital – which has since merged with Columbus and Cabrini.

  4. Hi! I have been researching nom de plumes and cooking section writers (Mary Meade, Mary Martenson ) and am intrigued that Mary Martenson came before Mary Meade….makes me wonder if Mary Meade was the evolution at the Tribune of the Mary Martenson nom de plume. I would LOVE the recipe you have for the pineapple cheese pie! Is it anything at all like Horn & Hardart’s pineapple pie?

    • Hi, Monica – I love the prospect of your project – there were MANY non de plumes back in the day…I think almost everyone who workid for a food compoany had a “company name” – I am know the name Mary Meade from somewhere else. Will have to find the recipe for pineapple cheese pie for you. Do keep me updated on your research!

    • Monica, I am now wondering – curiously – if the non de plumes were the reason some of the cookbook authors I have been researching for the past 10 or 15 years simply dropped from sight and you cant find anything even on google? I do know Myra Waldo really was Myra Waldo but she was married to a lawyer and may have just used HIS name in public when she stopped writing cookbooks. Thanks for writing! – Sandy

    • Monica, did you ever find the Pineapple Cheese pie? someone just sent me a request for it but I don’t think I ever acquired it. – Sandy

  5. …sheesh…very late at night! Sorry–that should be Martensen! Also, I have a photo of Mary Martensen doing Mary Martensen’s Mid-Week something, with famous Chicago baker Herman Dressel decorating a whipped cream cake. Let me know about the pineapple pie…

  6. Sandy–did you ever find the pineapple pie recipe? Let me know! thanks!

    • I forgot, Monica! Will take a look this afternoon. I managed to find a cake recipe for someone the other day who was looking for a Magic Chef recipe. Will see what I can unearth today. thanks for the reminder. – Sandy

  7. Hello,
    I came across an interesting 32-page booklet titled How to Preserve Fruits and Vegetables: “Wartime Canning” – Prepared by the Home Economics Dept. of the Chicago Herald American. On the inside it says “by Mary Martensen”. I came across this article as I was trying to find out more about its history – thanks for doing so much of the research! I’m not sure what to do with this book – there’s nothing online about it anywhere that I can find. If anyone is interested perhaps I can make it available online.

    • Hello Dustin–thanks for writing. Everything anyone can write to me about Mary Martensen adds to the complete picture. Can you upload a few photos of the booklet? Mary might me one of the cooks/writers that I know the least about–but not too long ago I could have said the same thing about Myra Waldo and Chef Louis Szathmary – but after writing on my blog what I DID know, additional details started to come in–somebody, somewhere, knows more about this person than you or I do. And items published during war time, you know, are more collectible.

  8. Sorry for the late reply. Just decided to do some more research into this today and remembered I had posted here. I’ll share what I’ve found:

    In terms of the wartime canning book I mentioned (which I currently have) I have still found no other copies in existence, or references to it anywhere. The closest thing I found was the following old ebay ad: http://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/pamplets-wartime-canning-the-ball-blue-book
    I’m not subscribed there so I can’t see more information, but from the description and picture available I can see one of the books is called “wartime canning” and was published by the Chicago Herald American. It sounds similar to what I have, but the cover is very different and has a less descriptive title. It could be the same work published in a different year, or it could be something entirely different by a different author. I don’t know.

    I will see about uploading some pictures of what I have soon. I am looking at donating it to a special collections library rather than putting it to auction. If it really is the only surviving copy then it belongs somewhere where people can find and appreciate it.

    Here’s some other random information I dug up related to Mary Martensen on the internet:

    http://vintageadsandbooks.com/herald-american-vintage-1947-mary-martensen-chicago-grocery-gains-ad-t344.html
    An interesting ad mentioning Mary Martensen

    http://mybeautifuldisastersblog.com/2011/04/20/back-to-the-classics/
    A blogger posted this image of the picture of her you mentioned from one of her cookbooks here.

    http://www.idaillinois.org/cdm/ref/collection/p16614coll14/id/1102
    This text from 1937 references Mary Martensen giving a lecture, the date and location match up. The excerpt is: “Temple Judea Sisterhood – Mary Martensen will lecture on “Foods in Foreign Lands” at the meeting Mon-day, November 1, at 2 p. mn. in the Chicago American Building, room 828. A tea will follow. ”

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chicago%27s_American
    Fun fact: President John F. Kennedy worked for the Chicago Herald-American in 1945 as a reporter. Maybe the two crossed paths at some point?

    http://www.worldcat.org/title/mary-martensens-cookie-recipes/oclc/733998054&referer=brief_results
    A quick search at the WorldCat finds record of this booklet by Mary Martensen from the 1930s, a cookie recipe book. Looks like the only copy of this in existence lies in Harvard University’s Depository (a climate-controlled facility where old media archives are stored) you would need to request special permission to view it.

    http://news.google.com/newspapers
    http://www.newspapers.com/
    Searching “Mary Martensen” at these websites (first is free, second is not as free) will turn up several of her columns, and thus many of her recipes printed in their original form. Good resource for finding more of her recipes.

    I’ll also mention that you can find copies of many of her more widely-published works on websites such as etsy.com, alibris.com, abebooks.com, and amazon.com for fairly low prices if interested in owning them.

    This might be the last bit of research I do, but I would suggest looking at Chicago Herald employment records, or searching other media archive sources for excerpts of radio and TV samples to find out further information about the woman behind the nom de plume…. there’s always a paper trail somewhere.

  9. Oh, and of course cross-referencing anyone matching her description who worked for or attended all of the schools mentioned in your post. That can’t be a very big list of people given the diversity of studies.

  10. Sorry, one last thing:

    http://archive.org/stream/AntiochNews09011955/1955-09-01_djvu.txt
    Excerpt from this text references the TV show as well:

    Mrs. Wilma Adams’ recipe for
    Chicken Cacciatore with Polenta
    has been accepted by the Chicago
    American Home Economics Director
    Mary Martensen and was presented
    on WBKB .channel 7 on Wednesday
    morning, Aug. 31 from 11 a. m. to
    12. Mrs. Adams also appeared on
    the program. “

  11. I’m searching for the pineapple cheese pie recipe from Horn & Hardart. You mention having it. Could you post it or send it to me, please? I’m trying to recreate a memory for a friend. Thanks…this is a great blog.

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