THOSE INCOMPARABLE BROWNS–CORA, ROSE & BOB, COOKBOOK AUTHORS

Back in 1965, when I first began collecting cookbooks, one of my first cookbook penpals was a woman in Michigan, Betsy, who has remained my friend to this day. I have been the happy recipient of many of her cookbooks as she began to downsize.

Betsy was the person who “introduced” me to the Browns – Cora, Rose, and Bob Brown, authors of over a dozen really fantastic, outstanding cookbooks. Betsy had some duplicates of the Browns’ cookbooks and sent them to me. Well, I was quickly hooked. And it was the Browns’ “America Cooks” (published 1940 by Halcyon House), that really turned me onto church-and-club community cookbooks. (I was stunned to see “America Cooks” listed at $300 by an antiquarian book dealer recently. I bought an extra copy for $5.00 some time ago and gave it to someone who didn’t have a copy!)

Everyone of you who reads cookbooks like novels (and thinks you are the only person in the world who does this) would find “America Cooks” a most readable cookbook. Since “America Cooks” was published in 1940, others have followed in the Browns’ footsteps. In the 1970s, Ann Seranne edited Junior League cookbooks, dividing them into parts of the country – titled THE EASTERN JUNIOR LEAGUE COOKBOOK, THE WESTERN JUNIOR LEAGUE COOKBOOK, THE MIDWESTERN JUNIOR LEAGUE COOKBOOK AND THE SOUTHERN JUNIOR LEAGUE COOKBOOK. And I’m not here to put any of those books down – but they are collections of recipes from junior league cookbooks, unadorned and without any of the commentary that makes the Browns’ books so entertaining. And I’m sure many of you are familiar by now with the Best of the Best cookbooks from Quail Ridge Press which are divided up by individual states except in a few instances when a few small states were combined (for instance, Best of the Best from the Mid-Atlantic cookbook combines Maryland, Delaware, New Jersey and Washington, D.C., while Best of the Best from Big Sky cookbook combines Montana and Wyoming) Nevertheless, the ladies from Quail Ridge Press went from state to state, collecting recipe books from churches and clubs everywhere they went—the featured cookbooks are listed in each cookbook so that, if you are interested, you can order some of them that are still in print. And, in more recent years, some organizations such as Favorite Recipes Press, are combining the best of the Junior League cookbooks into first rate new cookbooks—and these are extremely well done. (See my reviews on Recipes Worth Sharing and More Recipes Worth Sharing, both reviewed on this blog). I’m just saying, “America Cooks” may have been first.

In the foreword, the Browns write, “We put in twenty years of culinary adventuring in as many countries and wrote a dozen books about it before finding out that we might as well have stayed at home and specialized in the regional dishes of our own forty-eight states. For America cooks and devours a greater variety of viands than any other country. We’re the world’s richest stewpot and there’s scarcely a notable foreign dish or drink that can’t be had to perfection in one or another section of our country….”

“For many years we Browns have been collecting regional American cooking lore, gathering characteristic recipes from each of the forty-eight states (Hawaii and Alaska had not yet become states in 1940) with colorful notes on regional culinary customs. Our collection is complete and savory. It has been our aim to make this America’s culinary source book, a means whereby each state and city may interchange its fine foods and dishes with every other, from coast to coast and from border to border. Here are forty-eight different cookbooks merged into one handy volume—a guide to the best in food and drink that this bounteous country offers. Obviously, no one person nor three, can cover every kitchen, even with such enthusiastic help as we have had from several hundred local authorities. But we believe this is our best food book, and in order to build it bigger and better in later editions, we should like to swap regional recipes and gustatory lore with all who are interested…”

And seventy years later, I think “America Cooks” remains the Browns’ best food book.

Cora Brown, Robert’s mother, was born in Charlotte, Michigan, graduated from the Chicago Conservatory of music, married and brought up a family. She took up writing fiction and in 1920 went to Brazil to become co-publisher with her son and daughter in law, Rose. Cora lived with Bob and Rose in Japan, China, France, Germany, etc, becoming familiar with foreign customs and kitchens and collecting recipes with Rose. Cora is the author of “The Guide to Rio de Janerio” and co-authored ten cookbooks with Bob and Rose.

Rose Brown was born in Middletown, Ohio, and graduated from Barnard College and Teachers College. She was a teacher, interior decorator, journalist and contributed articles on cooking to Colliers, Vogue, This Week and other magazines. Rose was co-author with Cora and Bob on most of their cookbooks. One cookbook that does not list Cora is “Look Before You Cook” which shows Rose and Bob as authors. One cookbook authored solely by Bob Brown is “The Complete Book of Cheese.” “Culinary Americana” was written by Eleanor Parker and Bob Brown—Eleanor becoming Bob’s wife after Rose’s death.

According to Lippincott, the initiation of Rose into the mysteries of cooking was over a camp fire with game and instruction by her father. During the World War, she worked as a writer for the Committee of Public Information in Santiago, Chile. In Buenos Aires, Mrs. Brown became co publisher with Bob Brown of weekly magazines in Rio de Janeiro, Mexico and London. Rose Brown had her own kitchen in a dozen countries and traveled all over the world, always pursuing her hobbies of collecting recipes and cooking lore—and going fishing with her husband. Rose Brown passed away in 1952.

Bob brown was born in Chicago and was graduated from Oak Park High School and the University of Wisconsin. He arrived in New York in 1908 to enter the writing lists, contributing verse and fiction to practically all the periodicals of the time. One of his first books, written after the end of Prohibition, was called “Let There Be Beer!” He then collaborated with his mother and wife Rose on “The Wine Cookbook,” first published in 1934 and reprinted many times. A 1960 edition was re-named “Cooking with Wine” .

Robert Carlton Brown (1886-1959) was a writer, editor, publisher, and traveler. From 1908 to 1917, he wrote poetry and prose for numerous magazines and newspapers in New York City, publishing two pulp novels, “What Happened to Mary” and “The Remarkable Adventures of Christopher Poe” (1913), and one volume of poetry, “My Marjonary” (1916).

In 1918, Bob Brown traveled extensively in Mexico and Central America, writing for the U.S. Committee of Public Information in Santiago de Chile. In 1919, he moved with his wife, Rose Brown, to Rio de Janeiro, where they founded Brazilian American, a weekly magazine that ran until 1929. With Brown’s mother, Cora, the Browns also established magazines in Mexico City and London: Mexican American (1924-1929) and British American (1926-1929).

Following the stock market crash of 1929, the Browns retired from publishing and traveled through Asia and Europe, settling in France from 1929-1933. Brown became involved in the expatriate literary community in Paris, publishing several volumes of poetry, including” Globe Gliding” (1930), “Gems” (1931), “Words” (1931), and “Demonics” (1931), as well as “1450-1950” (1929), a book of visual poetry. While in France, Brown also made plans toward, and wrote a manifesto for, the development of a “reading machine” involving the magnified projection of miniaturized type printed on movable spools of tape. Arguing that such a device would enable literature to compete with cinema in a visual age, Brown published a book of “Readies”—poems by Gertrude Stein, Fillipo Marinetti, William Carlos Williams, Ezra Pound, and others, typeset in a manner appropriate to operation of his projected reading machine. Although Brown’s reading machine was never developed, his papers include letters and papers pertaining to its projected design and technical specifications, as well as a collection of his own published and unpublished visual and conceptual writing. (Bob Brown was way ahead of his time – today, we have the Kindle. I can’t help but wonder if someone came across his manifesto and ran with it).

In 1933, Brown returned to New York. In the 1930s, he wrote a series of international cookbooks in collaboration with Rose and Cora Brown. He also lived in cooperative colonies in Arkansas and Louisiana, visited the USSR, and wrote a book, “Can We Co-Operate” (1940), regarding the parameters of a viable American socialism. In 1941, he and Rose returned to South America. While traveling down the Amazon they amassed a substantial collection of art and cultural artifacts and collaborated on a book, “Amazing Amazon” (1942). The Browns eventually reestablished residence in Rio de Janeiro, where they lived until Rose Brown’s death in 1952.

After thirty years of living in many foreign countries, and following the deaths of Cora and Rose, Bob Brown closed their mountain home in Petropolis, Brazil, and returned to New York, where he married Eleanor Parker in 1953. Brown continued to write and ran a shop called Bob Brown’s Books in Greenwich Village and ran a mail order business until his death in 1959. Shortly after Brown’s death, a new edition of “1450-1950” was published by Jonathan Williams’s Jargon/Corinth Press.

During his lifetime, Bob Brown authored more than a thousand short stories and thirty full length books.
The Browns appear to have used a number of different publishers for their cookbooks. While “Soups, Sauces and Gravies,” “Fish and Sea Food Cookbook,” Salad and Herbs” were published by Lippincott, “The Complete Book of Cheese” was published by Gramercy Publishing Company. “America Cooks” and “10,000 Snacks” were published by Halcyon House and “The European Cook Book” by Prentice-Hall, Inc. A few were published by companies I am unfamiliar with; “The Country Cookbook” by A.S. Barnes and Company, and “Most for Your Money Cookbook” by Modern Age Books. “Culinary Americana”, co-authored by Brown Brown and Eleanor Parker Brown, was published by Roving Eye Press (Bob Brown’s own publication name). For whatever reason, the Browns appear to have shopped around whenever they had a book ready for publication. (Or did they copyright them all first, and then shop for publishers?)

Recently, I began to rediscover the fabulous cookbooks written the Browns. Some unexpected surprises turned up—for instance, as I was browsing through the pages of “Most for Your Money” I found a chapter titled “Mulligans Slumgullions, Lobscouses and Burgoos”—while I am unfamiliar with mulligans and lobscouses, I’ve written about slumgullion stew in sandychatter and have received messages from readers from time to time, sharing their stories about slumgullion stews of their childhoods. It starts out “Jack London’s recipe for slumgullion is both simple and appetizing…” providing some enlightenment about the history of slumgullion. (some other time, perhaps we can explore the obscure and mostly forgotten names of recipes).
And – synchronicity – I just finished writing about sauces last week when I rediscovered, on my bookshelves, the Browns “Soups Sauces and Gravies” which simply reaffirms my belief that the best cookbooks on sauces will be found in older cookbooks. This cookbook by the Browns was published in 1939.

The most complete list I have of the Browns’ cookbooks is as follows:

The Wine Cookbook, by Cora, Rose & Bob Brown, originally published in 1934, revised edition 1944, Little Brown & Company. In 1960 Bob Brown published a reprint of The Wine Cookbook with the title “ Cooking With Wine” and under his Roving Eye Press logo.

The European Cook Book/The European Cookbook for American Homes is apparently the same book with slightly different titles. Subtitled The Four in One book of continental cookery, Italy, Spain, Portugal, France. I saw and nearly purchased on the internet an English version of the same book from a dealer in England. I already have three copies, don’t need a fourth! However, it should be noted that the original European Cook Book for American Homes was published in 1936 by Farrar & Rinehart. The 1951 edition with a shortened title was published by Prentice-Hall.

The Country Cook Book by Cora, Rose, and Bob Brown, published 1937 by A.S. Barnes and Company.

Most for your Money CookBook, by Cora, Rose, and Bob Brown, published 1938 by Modern Age Books
Salads and Herbs, By Cora, Rose, and Bob Brown, published 1938 by J.B. Lippincott

The South American Cookbook (what I have is a Dover Publication reprint first published in 1971. The original was published by Doubleday, Doran & Company in 1939 – Cora, Rose and Bob Brown

Soups, Sauces and Gravies by Cora, Rose, and Bob Brown, published 1939 by J.B. Lippincott Company

The Vegetable Cookbook by Cora, Rose, and Bob Brown, published 1939 by J.B. Lippincott

America Cooks by Cora, Rose, and Bob Brown, published 1940 by Halcyon House.

Outdoor Cooking by Cora, Rose, and Bob Brown, published 1940 The Greystone Press (*notes that parts of this book appeared in Collier’s and Esquire magazines)

Fish and Seafood Cook Book by Cora, Rose and Bob Brown, published 1940 by J.B. Lippincott Company

Look Before you Cook by Rose and Bob Brown, published 1941 by Consumers Union of the United States, Inc.

10,000 Snacks by Cora, Rose, and Bob Brown, published 1948 by Halcyon House—the format and chatty style of 10,000 snacks is quite similar to “America Cooks”.

The Complete Book of Cheese, by Bob Brown, published 1955 by Gramercy Publishing

Culinary Americana by Eleanor Parker Brown and Bob Brown is a bibliography of cookbooks published in the cities and towns of the United States during the years from 1860 through 1960. It is believed that the first fund-raiser cookbook was compiled and published during the Civil War, by women to raised money for the Sanitation Commission. Culinary American focuses primarily on “regional” cookbooks, and notes that, “Certainly, it was after the War (i.e., the Civil War) that we find them printed in many states of the union,” writes Eleanor Parker Brown in the Introduction to Culinary Americana, “A survey of 200 cookbooks of our own collection, published at various times during this last century in Massachusetts showed that they came from seventy-four different cities and villages. In the case of many of the smaller places, these titles constitute the only books ever printed in these localities, which makes them important landmarks in the history of bookmaking in the state.
The regional cookbooks are a treasure trove of original recipes, as well as a record of old ‘receipts,’ reflecting the nationality background of the settlers of the community. Thus you will expect, and find, German foods in the old books of Lancaster County, Pennsylvania, Scandinavian receipts in the pamphlets of the Midwest, and Spanish dishes in the booklets published in the southwest…the little books, some in the handwriting of the contributor, often with signed recipes, gives us a glimpse of the gallant women who proudly cooked these meals and generously gave up their secrets ‘for the benefit of…others…”

Eleanor Parker Brown also shares with us, in the introduction, “Bob Brown first got together a cookbook collection for reference when he began to write about cooking. He had 1500 volumes which were purchased promptly by a grocery chain store as nucleus for their research library. It was then necessary for him to start a new collection. This was the origin of a interest in cookery books which lasted, and grew, to the end of this life. Bob saw cook books as social and cultural history in America; particularly, those regional books which were so close to the heart of the country…”

Eleanor says that after Bob’s sudden death, she continued work o this bibliography.” Culinary Americana includes listings of all the regional cookbooks we could either locate or obtain information about. It runs the gamut from ‘fifteen cent dinners for families of six’ to the extravagant and elaborate collations of Oscar of the Waldorf….”
“Culinary Americana” is the kind of book that cookbook collectors simply drool over.

As an aside, I find it curious that the Browns flooded the cookbook market within the span of a few years; from the Wine Cookbook, published in 1934, to Look Before You Cook published in 1941, the Browns published eleven cookbooks. Then they appear to have gone on hiatus until 10,000 snacks was published in 1948. However, given the extent of their travels and living in countries all over the world – it crossed my mind that perhaps all of these cookbooks were “in the works” while they lived abroad—and perhaps came home to get their cookbooks published. I’m speculating, of course.

The first time I wrote about the Browns (for the Cookbook Collectors Exchange in 1994) – information was scarce. Almost everything I wrote about was gleaned from the books or their dust jackets. Today, thanks to the internet, there is more biographical information available but not enough to satisfy my greedy soul. Of all the authors I have collected in the past 45 years, those by The Browns remain my all time favorites. I was stunned to discover Bob Brown had a bookstore and that he wrote over a thousand short stories and 30 full length books. Yowza – this trio did it all.

Happy Cooking & Happy Cookbook Collecting!

–Sandra Lee Smith

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12 responses to “THOSE INCOMPARABLE BROWNS–CORA, ROSE & BOB, COOKBOOK AUTHORS

  1. Sandy, your “chatter” is just amazing. How many “books” are there out there that contain less information than any one of your blog posts!

    Hadn’t heard of the Browns before, but have just ordered America Cooks”‘ Plus the South American one and the Soups, Gravies and Sauces one. While you have certainly outdone me in cookbook collecting, I believe I bought my first cook book somewhere around 1965 or a bit after, The Cooking of Provincial France. It was rhe second cookbook I owned, joining the Betty Crocker Cook Book, a gift from baby-sitting clients.

    • Hi, Nancy! Thank you! You are the first person to respond to this post on my blog! Have to ask, had you already ordered those Browns’ books or did you order them because of my praise for them? If it is the former and not the latter, then I would call that “synchronisity”. You will love America cooks – it’s definitely my all time favorite. But it was much to my chagrin, after writing and posting “Getting Sauced” that I went through my copies of the Browns’ books and re-discovered soups, sauces & gravies…laid in bed reading it one night recently doing an aw, shucks, that I hadn’t come across it sooner. If you can find it, DO buy Most for your money cookbook too. well….I’m willing to bet that, when you receive the ones you ordered, and begin reading them, you are going to want all of them. I started collecting cookbooks in 1965 -before that only had a few…a 1958 or 59 Betty Crocker cookbook that had been a wedding present..a church cookbook that my father bought from a coworker in 1960, for a dollar…and it was THAT cookbook that made me wonder how many other church & club cookbooks were “out there”. Thank you for writing! You’ve just brightened up my day!

  2. Hey, Sandy,

    Most definitely after reading your post–otherwise would never have heard of them. Isn’t it amazing how something can go from having quite a presence to almost totally falling through the cracks?
    I’m hoping the South American one would have come at a great time, before things were too cross-current influenced or too dumbed down, and that the Browns from your description don’t seem to be the sorts to do either.

    We had only two cookbooks in the household growing up–Joy of Cooking and something that had a dark green cover that my mother used one recipe from (oyster stuffing.) Joy didn’t get used until I started cooking. My mother only ever made one cookie recipe, one that she clipped out of the Saturday Evening Post. Once she lent the clipping to a friend who lost it, and to the best of my memory, she never made cookies again.

    Really appreciate all your detailed, enriching posts. You’ll need to hang out your shingle as a food historian!

    • I wonder, Nancy, if the oyster stuffing was in a book titled “The American Woman’s Cookbook” – it has a dark green cover – AND it has a recipe for oyster stuffing (2 c. oysters, 2 c. dry bread crumbs, 1tsp salt, 1/4 tsp pepper, 1/4 cup melted fat. you just mix it all together – makes 4 cups – and stuff away. Does that sound familiar?

  3. Hi, Nancy! Thank you! I’ll tell my significant other that I need a shingle. lol. RE your mother’s JOY cookbook–watch for something I am working on right now, tentatively The Mother books–its about the cookbook our mothers or grandmothers had, that we learned from (& hopefully inherited). Mine wasnt a JOY but my sister in law’s was. I dont think you will be the least bit disappointed with any of the Browns’ cookbooks. They didnt just sit back and write cookbooks about cuisine in other countries – they went and LIVED in those countries. Once you read your first ones, I bet you will want to find the others. Thank you again! You’ve brightened my day!

  4. Hi, Sandy,

    Love your idea of The Mother Cookbook.

    Inspired by you, I ventured down the (ugh) basement last night to try and find that book, which I did–and it is Lily Wallace’s New American Cook Book, the 1947 edition published by Books, Inc.

    Lily Haxworth Wallace, a “Home Economics Lecturer and Writer and Instructor in the Househols Arts Department at The Ballard School, New York City”was the Editor in Chief, “assisted by fifty-four leading Authorities on Domestic Science and the Art of Modern Cookimg.”

    I remembered one more recipe my mother made from that book–and it wins the prize for the most stained, “used” page in the book–“Shortcakes”, which was our standard summer desser with strawberries or peaches. It is not the sponge cake type, but more the biscuit type.

    Do you have this book?

  5. Believe it or not – I found a copy of this cookbook! (I am wondering if I can figure out how to photograph the cookbooks mentioned when I do the Mother Cook Book )- now that I found Lily Wallace’s book, I will have to spend some time looking through it. There are a number of cookbooks published in the 1940s that are fairly similar in format. I will have to spend some time comparing them. Thank you for taking the time to find your mother’s cookbook (Bet you will start using it again!) – Sandy

  6. YAY!!!!! you found it!
    I think I will find myself trying some things from here–just not the brains croquettes or the bean and peanut croquettes or the spaghetti and sauerkraut.

  7. I had a feeling, when I saw my copy of Lily Wallace’s cookbook, that you would start trying some of the recipes. See what a good find this is? You didn’t have to go out and buy it – only weny to the cellar to look around! :)

  8. How true, Sandy, but Barnes and Noble is so much nicer than my cellar and Amazon gives me review–but, as you pointed out, only my cellar is free!

  9. Thanks for writing this great post. Cora was my great-great-grandmother. Another relative posted a link to your blog on a Robert Carlton (Bob) Brown fan club page on facebook https://www.facebook.com/groups/69280304306/
    Thanks again,
    Rory Brown

    • Dear Rory,
      You are the answer to a prayer! I have this writer friend in Massachusetts who tried to find out, for me, what happened to the Browns–we uncovered the information that both Cora and Rose had died and we knew that Bob Brown remarried – because Eleanor was listed as the co-author of Culinary Americana, along with Bob. Bits of information surfaced – I would love to write more, if you are willing to give me some more biographical information –so I could do a sequel to my article about the Browns on my blog (I also wrote about them back in the 1990s in a cookbook newsletter called the Cookbook Collectors Exchange) – but it would be wonderful to write a sequel–I was able to do this recently in an article called Helen’s Cookbook – what started out simply as a handwritten cookbook that I found in a used book store years ago; a woman in England is into genealogy and she was able to discover more about the woman who owned that cookbook. Also, not long ago, I was able to learn (all through this blog!) what had happened to Myra Waldo, a woman who wrote numerous cookbooks in the 40s and 50s and then disappeared from public – not long ago, I discovered she had retired and moved to Beverly Hills, California, and was not very far from me! If only I had known this a few years sooner I might have been able to contact her. But the Browns were then and are still my favorite cookbook authors. I think I have all of the cookbooks. Thanks a million for writing–you jusr made my day! – Sandy@sandychatter

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